Invoice, Keeler, McNeil & Co. to Rigdon, Smith & Cowdery, 11 October 1836

Footnotes

1. 

   Printed text ends; unidentified handwriting resumes.  

2. 1

   A ribbed cotton cloth in which the warp passes over many weft threads to form cords. (“Canton,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 191.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

3. 2

   A type of coarse, napped, woolen cloth. (“Frieze,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 68.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

4. 3

   Any type of woven cloth patterned with a “small, diamond pattern with a dot in the center,” resembling a bird’s eye. (“Birdseye,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 20; “Bird’s-eye,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 169.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

   Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

5. 4

   A linen or cotton twill woven fabric with a diamond pattern. (“Diaper,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 218.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

6. 5

   TEXT: Or “Bu”.  

7. 6

   A strong linen or cotton fabric often used for trousers or military uniforms. (“Drill,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 225; “Drill,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 57.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

   Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

8. 7

   Heavy woolen or worsted fabrics of various weaves and patterns, used for outergarments made from mohair, the wool of the Angora goat. (“Coating,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 41; “Mohair,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 297.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

   Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

9. 8

   A bluish-gray woolen fabric, fulled and shorn, often used for uniforms in military schools. (“Cadet Cloth,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 30.)  

   Comprehensive Works Cited

   Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

10. 

    Endorsement in handwriting of Newel K. Whitney.  

11. 

    Endorsement in handwriting of Newel K. Whitney.  

12. 9

    Cloth made from the wool of Merino sheep. (“Merino,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 294.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

13. 10

    A “cotton cloth of plain, sometimes damask or diaper weave, made with hard spun, fine warp, often taped and a much coarser, slack twist filling, printed with flowers, birds, and other patterns, in bright colors on white or colored ground, and glazed by calendaring.” Often used for furniture or drapery. (“Chintz,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 39.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

14. 11

    Braids were woven or plaited fabric that was flat, round, or tubular; they were used for binding or trimming. (“Braid,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 24.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

15. 12

    Cotton goods manufactured in the United States. (“Domestics,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 222; “Domestics,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 54.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

16. 

    Graphite insertion in unidentified handwriting.  

17. 13

    A camblet or camlet was a plain weave used for clothing, furniture, and hangings; made from goat’s hair, part silk or linen, or wool. (“Camlet,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 188.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

18. 14

    A generic name for fine white linen cloth. (“Holland,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 258–259.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

19. 

    Graphite insertion in unidentified handwriting.  

20. 15

    TEXT: Graphite overwritten by ink.  

21. 16

    A generic name for fine white linen cloth. (“Holland,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 258–259.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

22. 17

    A stout and soft dress silk with fine cross ribs on one or both sides of the cloth. (“Peau de Soie,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 118.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

23. 18

    A French silk fabric with cross ribs on the face. (“Gros de Suisse,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 74.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

24. 19

    A fabric having a colored design on the textile face. (“Figured,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 64.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

25. 20

    Cloth made from the wool of Merino sheep. (“Merino,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 294.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

26. 21

    A “plain woven or twilled coarse, open fabric” made of hemp, cotton yarn, or hair. It was used for hat shapes if sized; when not lined, it was used for under-lining and as a stiffener for clothes. (“Buckram,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 27.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

27. 22

    A generic term for fabric intended to manufacture waistcoats. (“Vesting,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 372.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

28. 23

    Probably intended as “toilinet” or “toilinette,” a fabric made of silk, cotton, and wool, typically used for waistcoats. (“Toilinet,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 367; “Toilinet or Toilinette,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 156.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

29. 24

    A patterned French linen used for inexpensive clothing and furniture. (“Barrage,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 157.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

30. 25

    A clothing and curtain fabric with Chinese origins woven from uneven threads of silk. It was originally a tan color but in the early nineteenth century was often dyed. (“Pongee,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 327.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

31. 26

    Cloth made from the wool of Merino sheep. (“Merino,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 294.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

32. 

    Insertion in light brown ink in unidentified handwriting.  

33. 27

    Possibly an inexpensive type of fabric or fur used as backing for hats or other garments. (“Foundation,” in Oxford English Dictionary, 4:493.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    The Oxford English Dictionary. Edited by James A. H. Murray, Henry Bradley, W. A. Craigie, and C. T. Onions. 12 vols. 1933. Reprint, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1970.

34. 28

    A light, plain woven fabric typically made from cotton or linen. (“Cambric,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 31.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

35. 29

    Bobbinet was a “machine-made, hexagonal net, used for quillings, trimmings, etc.” It is also possible that the clerk made an error here and was referring instead to bobbin lace, a type of lace made by working bobbins or bones around pins in a cushion to produce a pattern. (“Bobbinnet,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 22; “Bobbin Lace,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 171.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

36. 30

    In the context of textiles, the term “book” is “derived from the booklike form in which some of the finer calicoes were folded and marketed in India.” A bookfold involved the fabric being “folded once lengthwise and twice crosswise.” (“Muslin,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 304; “Bookfold,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 23.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

37. 31

    Trimmings for dresses, furniture, and coach lace making. Plaited or twisted strands are used to form a pattern. (“Gimp,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 246.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

38. 32

    Braids were woven or plaited fabric that was flat, round, or tubular; they were used for binding or trimming. (“Braid,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 24.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

39. 33

    A clothing and curtain fabric with Chinese origins woven from uneven threads of silk. It was originally a tan color but in the early nineteenth century was often dyed. (“Pongee,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 327.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

40. 34

    TEXT: Or “Hubot”.  

41. 35

    Cloth made from the wool of Merino sheep. (“Merino,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 294.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

42. 36

    Cloth made of silk warp and worsted weft in a serge or twill weave. Black bombazine was used for mourning garments. (“Bombazine,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 172, 175.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

43. 37

    In the context of textiles, the term “book” is “derived from the booklike form in which some of the finer calicoes were folded and marketed in India.” A bookfold involved the fabric being “folded once lengthwise and twice crosswise.” (“Muslin,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 304; “Bookfold,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 23.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

44. 38

    A “heavy, stout, fulled and calendered broadcloth overcoating.” (“Castor,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 35.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

45. 39

    A fabric having a colored design on the textile face. (“Figured,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 64.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

46. 40

    This refers to everlasting, a stout, tightly woven cloth generally used for ladies’ shoes. It was also used in the nineteenth-century United States for lightweight summer coats. (“Everlasting,” in Montgomery, Textiles in America, 235–236.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Montgomery, Florence M. Textiles in America: 1650–1870. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1984.

47. 

    Printed form resumes.  

48. 

    Printed text ends; unidentified handwriting resumes.  

49. 41

    Another term for cotton yarn. (“Twist,” in Harmuth, Dictionary of Textiles, 159.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Harmuth, Louis. Dictionary of Textiles. New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1915.

50. 42

    Umbrellas with a manufactured top that secured ribs supporting the umbrella in place. (Andrews, Bygone England, 126–127.)  

    Comprehensive Works Cited

    Andrews, William. Bygone England: Social Studies in Its Historic Byways and Highways. London: Hutchinson and Co., 1892.

51. 43

    TEXT: Or “Shirtings”.  

52. 

    Graphite insertion in unidentified handwriting.  

53. 

    Unidentified handwriting ends; second unidentified handwriting—probably G. M. Gardner—begins.  

54. 

    Docket in handwriting of Marcellus Cowdery in black ink.  

55. 

    Notation in handwriting of Marcellus Cowdery in light brown ink.  

56. 

    Docket in handwriting of Marcellus Cowdery in graphite.